DRESSING FOR PLEASURE x HOUSE OF SOLO x MANDRAKE HOTEL

Introducing the Dressing for Pleasure collection beautifully photographed by Abeiku Arthur for an exclusive editorial and cover story published in House of Solo magazine Art Issue Summer 2024

Shot at the luxurious, eclectic and truly amazing Mandrake Hotel in London’s Fitzrovia, the Mandrake provided the perfect setting for the noir elegance of Atsuko’s latest designs.

Photography: Abeiku Arthur
Styling: Fara Jane Galaxy
Model: Melissa Bell
Make Up: Cristine Dupuys
Hair: Jin Ong

Our thanks to Abeiku Arthur and all of the House of Solo team and of course to the Mandrake Hotel.

Read the full story here and follow the link to the collection gallery.

DRESSING FOR PLEASURE: EMBRACING EMPOWERMENT AND SENSUALITY IN 2024

Atsuko Kudo, a visionary Japanese-born designer based in London, has carved a unique niche in the world of fashion with her exquisite, latex-only creations.
By focussing on the fabric at its most luxurious, and bringing the art of couture and made to measure to her work, she has elevated latex to a new artistic level. Her designs are a testament not only to femininity, and beauty but also to strength and empowerment, attracting some of the most iconic and glamorous women globally. From Beyoncé to Lady Gaga, Madonna, Rihanna, Taylor Swift, and many more, Atsuko Kudo's creations have graced numerous red carpets, stage performances, and editorial spreads, consistently making headlines and pushing the boundaries of both fashion and latex.
Atsuko Kudo's journey into the spotlight began in 2008 when Steven Meisel featured Eva Mendes in Atsuko's designs for Italian Vogue. This marked the beginning of a series of high-profile collaborations and groundbreaking moments in fashion history. In 2010, Atsuko made waves with the first full-scale latex runway show at Cipriani’s in New York, setting a precedent for her future endeavors.
One of her most talked-about designs was the red latex Victorian/Elizabethan gown worn by Lady Gaga during her meeting with the late Queen Elizabeth. This iconic piece showcased Atsuko's ability to blend historical inspiration with contemporary flair. Her work continued to gain prominence, with Linda Evangelista donning her creations for a W magazine shoot styled by Edward Enninful and shot by Steven Klein in 2012, as well as her leading gown for the V&A’s British Ballgowns exhibition.
Atsuko Kudo's designs have not only graced fashion magazines and exhibitions but have also played significant roles in music and film. She provided looks for Madonna and Katy Perry in a V magazine cover shoot and dressed Beyoncé for her Formation world tour. Atsuko’s designs were also featured in Taylor Swift’s "Bad Blood" and "Look What You Made Me Do" music videos.
In 2016, she created Ariana Grande’s iconic Dangerous Woman ‘bunny’ look, further cementing her status as a go-to designer for show-stopping outfits.
Her influence also into film. In 2017, Rihanna wore Atsuko Kudo in th movie "Valerian: City of a Thousand Planets," and in 2022, Zoe Kravitz sported her designs as Catwoman in "The Batman." Atsuko’s pieces also featured throughout the film "Don’t Worry Darling," showcasing the versatility and appeal of her designs across different mediums.
Atsuko Kudo's recent endeavors have continued to elevate her brand. Her "Dressing for Pleasure" collection, which debuted on Nick Knight’s SHOWstudio, has been widely acclaimed. Christina Ricci’s red carpet appearance in the Tulip gown from this collection made headlines, followed by singer-songwriter Raye's record-breaking win at the 2024 Brit Awards in another version of the Tulip dress. The collection also featured prominently in Carine Roitfeld’s curated AMFAR AIDS benefit fashion show in Cannes recently. Collaborations have been a cornerstone of Atsuko Kudo’s career. Her partnership with Balmain for their AW20 collection, and with Versace for their AW22 collection, demonstrate her ability to seamlessly integrate her unique latex aesthetic with other renowned fashion houses and their in house signatures and aesthetic. More recently, she has worked with Abeiku Arthur, editor-in-chief at House of Solo magazine, to shoot the main pieces from the "Dressing for Pleasure" collection at the Mandrake Hotel. This collaboration promises a visually stunning presentation in the upcoming issue.
Atsuko Kudo’s impact on the fashion industry is profound and far-reaching.
Her innovative use of latex, combined with her vision for empowering, feminine designs, has not only redefined the material but has also created a lasting legacy that continues to inspire and captivate audiences worldwide.
What does pleasure mean in 2024?
The meaning and experience of pleasure in 2024 remain the same as they have always been, especially in their purest sensual and hedonistic forms.
However, the context of the times makes it, as an experience, more important than ever, especially from a female perspective. For me, the act of dressing for pleasure has always been at the center of what I do because I have only ever designed using latex as a fabric. In 2024, this is also of equal importance, because the rights of women to express their sexuality and have power over their own bodies are increasingly under threat. When latex is cut correctly, it can create clothing that transforms the feelings of the person wearing it. Everyone who wears latex does so for this reason, as latex clothing is designed purely for pleasure.
I know that women want to dress to have fun, feel powerful, and express themselves the way they would like to be seen—without judgment. My aim is to dress every woman who wants to look and feel beautiful, feminine, and strong. This is why my current collection is called Dressing for Pleasure.
Dressing for Pleasure was also the title of an early fetish magazine by the pioneering fetishwear designer John Sutcliffe and became the title of a short film made in 1977, which featured Jordan and Malcolm McLaren in the Sex boutique. There is also a book called Dressing for Pleasure about the early John Sutcliffe/Atomage magazines.
I feel that what we are doing is part of a movement that originally started with a very small group of people expressing themselves. In 2024, latex is now more widely recognized, but the core of the dressing of latex clothing is still pure and the same. We want to honor it and take this even wider to progress the idea of allowing yourself to feel free to dress for your own pleasure. Taking and making pleasure is a positive act in the world we all live in today.
It’s very important to me that dressing for pleasure in 2024 is part of this history of progress towards feeling good about your sexuality and your own body.
Favorite person you've dressed this year so far, and what you loved about the look?
The actress Christina Ricci started this year for us in style when she wore the Tulip gown from the new collection on the red carpet for the Critics' Choice Awards in LA. Christina and her husband, Mark, approached us directly for this occasion, and we were thrilled that such an iconic actress known for her work in darker-edged cult films wanted to wear this dress. We couldn’t have imagined a more perfect person to wear this new style in a very public setting. She looked so beautiful and, most importantly, she looked as if she was very much enjoying wearing the dress. She also confirmed this afterward!
Who would you love to create an outfit for that you haven't already (alive or dead)?
I always wanted to dress the late Queen Elizabeth. This ambition started when she met Lady Gaga wearing the red Victorian-style latex dress we designed for Gaga’s Royal Variety performance in 2009. It became a really significant moment in the acceptance of latex as a fabric because, in all the images, the Queen was smiling, and Gaga had chosen a really respectful, but still red, latex! look for the occasion. After that, I always thought the next step would be to design some latex pieces for the late Queen Elizabeth in her own unique style. Sadly, that will never happen now, of course.
Where do you see the future of fashion going with so many crazy micro-trends and social media?
I don’t really follow fashion trends closely, this is because we work very much in slow fashion (not fast). Since everything we do is made by hand and in small quantities, we encourage people to buy something that will be amazing and last a very long time, if cared for correctly. Hopefully, our latex will give you a lifetime of pleasure. Also, to come back to your first question—pleasure will never go out of fashion, and because we only use latex and therefore only dress people for the purposes of pleasure, this is, I believe, timeless.
Do you see subcultures continuing and thriving, or are people struggling with their identity now because of the internet?
I come from the last generation that was predominantly pre-internet. This meant that to socialize, have fun, exchange ideas, etc., we had to go out to clubs and events. For those born since the internet took over our lives, it’s completely possible to do many of those things without meeting anyone in person.
However, this lack of human contact is having a profound, often detrimental effect on the whole of our culture, especially subcultures. Fortunately, for the world of latex clothing, the physical sensation of wearing the clothing cannot be
replaced by just looking at it online. Wearing latex is super sensual as the fabric is like a second skin. It couldn’t be more physical and personal, so nothing can replace that feeling. Also, latex is super photogenic. It makes female curves look amazing when it’s fitted correctly, so there are many good reasons to view latex imagery in real life and on the internet. For latex culture, the internet has probably been mainly positive in that many more people can view and communicate with each other about what is possible, but experiencing it in reality is the main thing.
In terms of socializing and clubs, things have definitely changed, but that side of things is always in flux.
Advice for someone purchasing their first latex piece?
My advice is to not necessarily choose the cheapest item. Cheap latex can be very disappointing, unflattering, and often a waste of money. Here at AK, we dress all shapes and sizes of women and take great care to ensure a perfect fit for all customers. Of course, AK is known to be a more luxe brand, that is not because we are trying to be expensive but more because we want to design and produce latex that will be thrilling, exciting, and sexy. This is not easy, and to do it well takes great care and time. So my advice is to choose something that you believe will suit you, but don’t try to cut corners—your own pleasure is very important!
What is your one favorite fashion piece that you'll treasure forever?
This would be my Terry de Haviland shoes, made for me personally by the amazing and legendary Terry de Haviland, who is sadly no longer with us. My husband bought them for me for our first Christmas together. What he didn’t know was that I also had bought him a pair of Terry’s amazing heels! So we both had heels from Terry for our first Christmas together, and we still have them to this day. Terry’s designs are classic and timeless—and very sexy!
How do you stay inspired?
I am inspired by life and love and the pursuit of pleasure. In the end, life is all about trying to find ways to have a good time, and create things that help others feel that way. Anything I can find that inspires me to design clothing that
will create that feeling is my inspiration.
Latex is often part of the fetish scene, which I think is having a major revival amongst younger people. What's the difference between a fetish and a kink in your opinion?
It’s fantastic that latex and the fetish scene are so strong now, but this comes back to my earlier answer. Latex is real; it touches you; it is personal, sexy, and like a second skin. This is very attractive in a world that has become socially distanced. Something that feels real and inspires emotion is very precious. I don’t know the difference between a fetish and a kink (though kink sounds like maybe a mild fetish!). I will always fetishize latex because it never stops giving me the feeling I got when I first wore it while at Vantan Fashion College in Tokyo. It made me feel like a superwoman, so that is very seductive, and I instantly became obsessed. So it is a fetish, but it is also always in fashion with me.
What's your favorite thing about using latex as your main material?
All of the above! Latex never stops inspiring me and gives me pleasure because its qualities are so close to human skin, yet it can be modified and worked into ways that are not possible with any other fabric. This is so fascinating. Latex is my love and my life, as well as my amazing husband, who is also my partner here at AK.
What does it mean to call London home?
London became my home because I knew when I lived in Tokyo that if I wanted to design latex clothing, I had to come to London. Everything about London’s amazing culture led it to become the birthplace of latex clothing (John Sutcliffe, Vivienne Westwood, and so many others who followed). There was never any other city I would have chosen. Now it is my home, and it means everything to me. It has changed so much in the time I have lived here, but I believe it is still the most creative city for latex, fashion, and so many other things.
The decisions of the governments of the last few years have not helped London, especially Brexit, but the rich culture of artists, designers, and infrastructure is still here and now needs encouragement to thrive. This is what makes London
so amazing. I am hopeful for the future, but we all have to work on it.
Describe your perfect London weekend?
I am lucky enough to have a small but beautiful garden with roses, lavender, and, most importantly, jasmine. I love the scent of jasmine, so as it is blooming right now in early July, my favorite thing is to sit in the garden reading and designing while the perfume of jasmine wafts through the air! For the rest of the year, I love to go to exhibitions;of which London still has so many amazing ones, concerts, and the cinema. However, we work too much, so I can’t go as often as I would like.
What's coming up for you next?
We have some very exciting things coming up this year that will be part of the Dressing for Pleasure collection. Of course, most things which are coming up I can’t mention before they happen, so all I can say is to watch this space!
However, it’s very exciting to be featured in House of Solo magazine. We are very aware that in the current climate for independent publishers, it can be challenging to publish high-quality magazines. So, we are thrilled and grateful to be featured here and appreciate so much the opportunity to have shot the feature at the incredible Mandrake Hotel. It was great to work with Abeiku Arthur and his amazing team and to have the opportunity to speak about everything here. Thank you.